Every year, as soon as the dates for Rider Mania, er, Motoverse, are announced, I start planning for the event with due earnest. Between that, and when it’s finally time to make that trip to Goa, something or the other always comes up. This was the case last year, too, when, by the time I made it to Goa, everyone else was heading back to their respective homes after enjoying a weekend of revelry. This year, I was determined to change that, and I planned, packed, and set off a few days in advance for the promised land. The sun hung low in the sky as I pulled up to the gates of the Royal Enfield Motoverse, the air thick with the scent of petrol and adventure. It was a place I had only heard intricate tales about till now — the legendary world where motorcycles and passion collided in a symphony of chrome, steel, and exhaust notes. As I rode past those gates, I could feel my heartbeat quicken in anticipation.
The Party
Stepping into the Motoverse felt like stepping into a dream. The ground beneath me vibrated with the sound of engines, each thump a distinct note in the grand orchestra of motorcycling. Everywhere I looked, there were bikes — some gleaming in the sunlight, others with a layer of dust from countless journeys. The air was alive with energy, with riders chatting, admiring each other’s machines, and sharing stories of their most recent trips.
I had ridden down on the Royal Enfield Bullet 350, which sat proudly in the centre of the Motoverse parking lot, its polished chrome reflecting the afternoon sun. The bike was a work of art — classic, but undeniably modern. I ran my fingers along its tank, the smoothness of the metal comforting under my touch. As I gazed at it, I could almost hear the engine rumbling to life, replaying the journey through familiar landscapes on the way here. An apt steed for my first time at the festival, I reckoned.
As I made my way around the venue, I couldn’t help but notice the variety of characters present at the festival. You had the hardcore bikers, the people who were there for the music, the foodies, the ones who vibed with everything, and a few specimens that seemed totally out of place, too. There were custom motorcycles, restored classic motorcycles, art inspired by motorcycles, music performances, and even beer brewed specially for Motoverse! Talk about variety, eh?
We witnessed the launch of the Goan Classic 350, saw the Himalayan Electric testbed being ridden around, saw some helmets being painted, saw some biker clubs facing off against other biker clubs in friendly contests, saw a lot of miniature scale models, and, of course, saw too many other things to even keep track of. Phew! I never knew that a motorcycling festival could get this overwhelming.
The Spectacle
Maut Ka Kuan simply translated means ‘Well of Death’, and the daredevils who flirt with danger inside it on a daily basis seem to disregard the existence of any such thing. I have witnessed this spectacle many a time as a starry-eyed kid whenever the circus was in town. I distinctly remember the sounds and smells of two-strokes as they flouted the rules of gravity, going round and round in circles as the riders performed various feats of sheer madness. Things were a tad different at Motoverse. Chintu Lal and his band of merry men had been given stock Hunter 350s, and they set about doing the one thing they knew how to do. Absolute magic on two wheels.
Inside a towering wooden cylinder, these men on motorcycles defy gravity and logic, racing up the walls in a dizzying blur of speed. The stunt is a breathtaking display of skill and bravery that leaves you in awe. The rickety wooden structure has walls that curve inward as they rise, and planks that have fallen off after years of being ridden over. As the motorcycle revs its engine and the rider takes off, physics seems to take a back seat. The bike climbs the vertical wall, defying the pull of gravity, while the rider barely clings to the handlebars, steering with precision and control, inches from imminent disaster.
For the stuntmen, it is a dance with danger, a balancing act of concentration and sheer guts. The skill required is immense. The riders must navigate not just the speed but the centrifugal force that pushes them outward, threatening to fling them off the wall. The bike’s tyres need to find perfect traction, and the rider’s timing must be impeccable. One small miscalculation — a second of hesitation or a minor lapse in focus — and the consequences can be catastrophic.
But these stuntmen are not reckless thrill-seekers. They are athletes, honing their craft through years and years of practice. Not everyone can learn this skill. Actually, scratch that; not everyone is taught this skill. It is only imparted to the few who are dedicated to following it like a religion for the rest of their lives. Many began their careers on smaller, safer tricks, gradually moving to more dangerous stunts. Based out of Mumbra, Chintu has personally taught Narendra Rajput and ‘Rider Boy’ Laxman, and they have been riding together for the past 15 years now. They know their bikes intimately, feeling every vibration and shift in the engine. They understand the physics at play, and they trust their instincts and years of experience.
Despite the inherent danger, there is a strange beauty to the Well of Death. The sight of a rider defying the laws of nature, floating momentarily on a vertical plane, is mesmerising. The crowd watches in awe as the rider soars higher, leaning into the wall with a controlled precision that belies the perilous nature of the stunt. It’s a display of mastery over fear, a testament to human determination and the will to push boundaries. For these fearless riders, the Well of Death is more than a performance — it’s a way of life. It’s a challenge they face every time they step into the ring, a moment when they and their machines become one, testing the limits of what’s possible. And as long as there are crowds eager for thrills, they will continue to ride, defying death, for the show.
The Challenge
Witnessing people racing on motorcycles, going at it, guns blazing for a shot at the glory of securing a place on the podium, is fun, but getting to be right in the mix is something else altogether. The kind folks at Royal Enfield had arranged for a media category in the dirt track race, for which I was more than happy to represent Motoring World. I quickly geared up and signed a few forms, after which we were assigned our respective motorcycles. I was to ride the Himalayan 450, stripped down and equipped to take a few tumbles. A quick scrutiny of both our motorcycles and our riding gear happened, after which we were lined up at the start.
That was when it finally struck me. A little bit of adrenaline, anticipation, and a streak of competitiveness crept into my system. However much the organisers tried to assure us that it was just a friendly race, I knew there was a bit of glory and a lot of bragging rights involved. We had a few minutes of free practice where we got a feel for the track and the motorcycle, too, after which we lined up once again. The gates were propped up, the track marshals signalled to each other, and the track was clear. One minute to go. I could feel the steam building inside my helmet as I held the revs at 4000 rpm. The lights went out, the gates dropped, and I popped the clutch, hurtling out into the dirt.
The next few minutes went by in a sweaty blur. I was overtaken, I overtook a few, some crashed, I had a fall myself, and the only constant was the feeling of anticipation as I tried to stay with the lead pack as we raced into the final lap. The race came to an end, and I wasn’t fortunate enough to make it onto the podium, but I would be lying if I said that I didn’t enjoy it.
At Motoverse 2024, Royal Enfield also unveiled the FT450, a bike that channels the brand’s storied motorsport history while making more accessible the sport of flat-track racing. Based on the Guerrilla 450, the FT450 is a sharp instrument, designed for the rigours of dirt oval racing. The sleek, minimalistic design is a nod to the retro-inspired aesthetics of Royal Enfield, but underneath the minimalistic bodywork and sturdy frame lies a potent blend of performance upgrades. A free-flow exhaust, an electronics deletion, a bigger sprocket, and a few other changes make it a potent flat-tracker.
The heart of the FT450 is its high-performance liquid-cooled 450cc single-cylinder Sherpa engine, designed to offer a perfect balance of power, torque, and agility. With its enhanced suspension system and sturdy build, the FT450 provides riders with a responsive and agile ride, allowing them to slide into corners with confidence and control. The bike’s refined geometry and weight make it perfect for sliding, maintaining speed, and recovering with precision. Whether you’re a seasoned racer or a novice at the Slide School, the FT450 ensures you’re equipped to take on the track with ease.
All in all, I got to really cherish my first time at Motoverse. Riding, racing, partying, making new friends, and listening to old tales, it was a true community. A place where stories were shared, experiences were exchanged, and where the love of motorcycling ran deeper than just a hobby. It was a way of life, shared between all present.
